Ushuaia, Argentina

As the most southern city on the globe, legendary Ushuaia stands as the final frontier to the remote wilds of Antarctica. Its unique position at the very tip of Argentina has drawn intrepid travellers for centuries and earned its motto, “Ushuaia, fin del mundo, principio de todo”“Ushuaia, end of the world, beginning of everything”.

Now you might be thinking, that all sounds a bit dramatic… But the Tierra del Fuego region where the open ocean meets the tail of the Andean mountains really does leave you jaw-dropped. If that sounds just as irresistible to you as it did to me, then this is the blog for you.

I’m sharing my tried and tested itinerary for a once in a lifetime week in Ushuaia. Including the absolute must-see and do activities, the best coffee shops and restaurants, where to stay and inside tips along the way. Click the options below to jump to the sections you’re most interested in or read on from the top for all the juicy info.

  1. Is a week in Ushuaia too long?
  2. How to get to Ushuaia
  3. Getting around Ushuaia
  4. Best time to go
  5. Day 1: Cruise the Beagle Channel for sea lions (& penguins in summer)
  6. Day 2: Scale the Martial Glacier
  7. Day 3: Trek to Laguna Esmerelda
  8. Day 4: Soak up local history & culture
  9. Day 5: Explore Tierra del Fuego National Park
  10. Day 6: Hike Glacier Vinciguerra’s ice caverns
  11. Day 7: Off-road 4×4 lake trip or Cerro Castor skiing
  12. Best places to eat & drink
  13. Best places to stay
  14. What to pack & key things to know
  15. How much one week in Ushuaia costs

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Ushuaia at a glance:

Is a week in Ushuaia too long?

Firstly, before we dive into the full itinerary you might be wondering if one week in Ushuaia is too long (or even too short). I was worried about this too before I spent a week there myself and found that there really is so much to do in Ushuaia.

You’ll see Patagonia tour providers offering one day stops in this magical region which would only allow you to see a tiny fraction of the nature and history. So if you can spend a full week here I would really recommend it – Patagonia as a whole is absolutely massive and in trying to see so many areas of it in a short time frame, in my opinion you won’t be able to enjoy them to their fullest. With that in mind, give Ushuaia the time it deserves for all the best bits in this itinerary!

How to get to Ushuaia

Penguins in Ushuaia, Argentina

Now let’s look at how you’ll actually get to this southern city. While there are bus options or you could drive to Ushuaia yourself, it would take days through very remote landscapes.

If you’re coming from the capital, Buenos Aires or other major hubs in Argentina its quickest, easiest and even often cheaper to fly to Ushuaia International Airport (USH). The airport is just 10 minutes drive across Ushuaia city centre so super convenient to get to by taxi. Here’s a breakdown of the main routes:

  • Buenos Aires Ministro Pistarini International (EZE) to Ushuaia (USH) – 3 hours 35 minutes
  • Buenos Aires Jorge Newbery International (AEP) to Ushuaia (USH) – 3 hours 40 minutes
  • El Calafate (FTE) to Ushuaia (USH) – 1 hour 20 minutes
  • Cordoba (COR) to Ushuaia (USH) – 3 hours 55 minutes (just note, this route only flies twice each week – once on a Wednesday and once on a Saturday)

If you’re travelling from outside Argentina, you’ll likely need to pass through one of the above Argentine airports to get to Ushuaia. When you arrive at Ushuaia airport there’s no need to a book a taxi, just walk to the taxi rank outside and you’ll join a queue for the next one.

Getting around Ushuaia

Once you’re in Ushuaia as the city is much smaller and more compact you can walk to most of the central destinations. Many of the best restaurants, coffee shops and museums are all one the one central road through town – Avenue San Martín. This is just one street back from the waterfront where Beagle Channel boat tours depart as well as the tourist information office (if you have any questions, they’re incredibly helpful and you can get your passport / piece of paper stamped) and central bus station.

It’s this tourist bus station (exact location here) you’ll use to get to the incredible main sights outside the city centre. As you can see from the map below, the entrance to Tierra del Fuego National Park is a journey west of the city and two of the glaciers are also to the north and east of Ushuaia. But again, as Ushuaia is a pretty small place and well set up for tourists, catching the bus is easy, safe and reliable. I’d just recommend visiting the bus station to get an updated timetable of departures and prices. You can also book your tickets in advance here too, which I’d recommend doing then you don’t need to worry about the bus filling up – especially in peak season!

They do take debit and credit cards but for some reason ours didn’t work and we had to pay in cash, so be prepared in case. You’ll be asked what time you’d like to depart and return and both your outbound and return journeys will be marked on a paper ticket that you need to keep hold of.

For any other journeys outside the main bus routes and to get back to the airport, taxis are best. There’s rumour that Uber is coming to Ushuaia but it may not be widespread yet. In the meantime you can get a taxi from the main station on the harbour front or book a Remi which is essentially a driver and a car which can be cheaper than a taxi. I’d recommend asking the taxi you get from the airport for their card to WhatsApp them or asking your accommodation who they recommend. This worked best for us.

Of course, if you don’t fancy the bus or taxis and want to have more control over when you visit each place you can rent a car. Just note, if you’re visiting in winter the roads can be quite scary as there is a lot of snow (but more on that next!). I would personally recommend the bus as a convenient and affordable option over renting a car.

Best time to go

Now you know how you’ll get to Ushuaia and explore once you’re there, the only decision left is when to go. As I alluded to earlier, the weather can change quite a lot throughout the year. As you can see from the table below the highest temperatures are in their summer – from December to February. But with it comes peak crowds, higher prices and a whole lot of rain.

MonthAverage Daily HighAverage Daily LowAverage No. Days of Rain
January15°C5°C20 days
February15°C4°C17 days
March13°C3°C17 days
April10°C2°C16 days
May5°C0°C14 days
June3°C-1°C10 days
July4°C-1°C12 days
August5°C-1°C12 days
September7°C1°C11 days
October9°C2°C16 days
November13°C3°C16 days
December14°C4°C19 days
Source: holiday-weather.com

For those reasons I’d really recommend going either in the quieter shoulder seasons (March/May or September/October) or in their winter. We visited in peak winter in August and it was brilliant. The snow means skiing is an option in Ushuaia’s resort, the glaciers are most beautiful (and safe) to explore, the town looks prettier draped in white, the prices drop, the area is much quieter and you have a greater chance of clear sunny skies. So if like us, you’re not a fan of crowds and see the beauty in a crisp cold but sunny day then aim for August.

The only exception to that is if you really want to see penguins on Martillo Island, you’ll need to visit when they arrive to mate from November to early April. Just be sure to book your penguin boat trip well in advance as they will fill up, but more on that next! I cover options for winter or spring/summer visits.

Day 1: Cruise the Beagle Channel for sea lions & iconic Les Éclaireurs Lighthouse (& penguins in summer)

Beagle Channel Cruise, Ushuaia, Argentina

Start your trip on a high by cruising the famous Beagle Channel, the wildlife-rich strait at the tip of South America separating Argentina and Chile. The 240km long waterway was named after HMS Beagle during its first survey of the coasts of southern South America. The vessel was captained by Robert FitzRoy (a name you might recognise in Patagonia!) and joined by Charles Darwin to study the natural history of the area.

Today you can sail down the historic channel to get up close to sea lions, a whole range of seabirds including cormorants, shags and more on Isla de Pajaros (Bird Island) and from December to March you also have the chance to see whales and penguins. Plus, tours will also take you past the incredibly remote and strikingly beautiful Les Eclaireurs Lighthouse built in 1919.

The 4 hour boat trip I took was with Patagonia Adventure Explorer and I’d definitely recommend it! Their boats are much smaller with fewer people so you can get up close to the sea lions and birds, their guides were incredibly knowledgable and we got to stop off at Isla Bridges for a mini trek to learn more about the plant life and the views were stunning!

Plus, they offer coffee, hot chocolate and some biscuits on board while you sail – does it get any better! As I’ve said, I recommend booking this trip as early as you can to get your spot. Then if you have any questions, they have a small office in the harbour where you can talk to their friendly team. Book your boat trip with mini trekking here.

Penguin channel tours

If you’re travelling to Ushuaia between late November and early April and want to see Magellanic and Gentoo penguins on Martillo island, click here to book a great tour option with TripAdvisor. You’ll be able to get up close to the island to see the penguins in their natural habitat as well as all the other sights I mentioned above in the regular channel tours.

What to bring

Just note, these tours are quite long and while they do offer some drinks I’d recommend bringing a packed lunch or at least more snacks to keep you going! The channel can also be pretty windy and cold – make sure you pack enough layers, a waterproof jacket and hat, gloves, buff and sunglasses.

Day 2: Scale the Martial Glacier

Martial Glacier, Ushuaia, Argentina

On day two, we’re heading in land to another natural wonder – the Martial Glacier. Just above the city at 1,000 metres above sea level you’ll find the incredible amphitheatre-shaped glacier named after French explorer, Louis Ferdinand Martial in 1883. It’s the beautiful remains of a much larger glacier that provides fresh water to the city and today offers beautiful views of Ushuaia and the bay as you can see above.

Now I know what you’re thinking – don’t you have to be a pro mountaineer to explore a glacier…? In this case the answer is no! This is a really accessible and generally safe glacier to visit on your own with a ski run and plenty of hiking trails to explore. You really don’t need to pay a guide for this unless you want to get well off the beaten track but as two pretty experienced hikers we found this plenty for a day trip.

How to get there

The start of the glacier is only 7km from the city centre and takes around 15 minutes to drive. Which is why I’d recommend just ordering a taxi to take you up and back as it should cost well under £10.

To save money we decided to walk which took just over an hour but be warned, the road is essentially a steep series of twists and turns so it’s not the most fun to walk but there are some great view points along the way. It was a budget decision I probably wouldn’t take again 😂

What to bring

Whether you’re visiting in summer or the depths of winter, you’ll may still need some gear to help you tackle the terrain. As we were there in snowy August the paths weren’t possible to walk without ice grips or crampons. But don’t worry, if you don’t personally own these, you can rent them from the ski store on the mountain for a couple of dollars and no these aren’t hardcore mountaineering boots – they’re just grips that fit over the sole of your shoes. For extra stability you can also rent trekking poles which we did too – they’re really helpful for supporting you while going downhill or testing how deep sections of snow are.

As I’ve mentioned, just make sure you have enough warm layers and proper walking shoes or boots that are waterproof and you’ll have a brilliant day.

As for food, there’s a lovely little tea house by the visitor centre that serves delicious coffee, afternoon tea and sandwiches. So no need to pack a lunch or snacks – just head there afterwards to refuel in their cosy space after your hike like we did.

Routes

In terms of routes, we walked the main trail up from the visitor centre that passes through beautiful snowy woodland before opening out onto the full glacier. From there you can follow the signs up the glacier towards the best view points. Once you reach that point, there is the option to continue on and walk a small loop around a higher section of the glacier but the journey up is already quite steep so like us you might be ready to start heading back down. This took us about 2 hours to go there and back.

There are some other routes but I’d recommend this main one for the best unobstructed views. You can then walk back down the side of the ski slope for a different view. There’s a board with a map of all the routes at the visitor centre for reference. Overall I loved this experience, the hiking was super rewarding and the views are just jaw-dropping!

Day 3: Trek to Laguna Esmeralda

Laguna Esmeralda, Ushuaia, Argentina

On day three, you’ll see a true Ushuaia gem – the magic turquoise waters of Laguna Esmeralda. This is a beautiful hike with more mountain views and unique terrains like peat bogs that you’ll take boardwalks over. As it’s mostly on the level it’s a really nice walk that’s accessible to anyone with a decent level of fitness. Plus, as it’s well signposted, you won’t need a guide for this hike either which is fantastic for budget travellers like me!

How to get there

The trailhead for the lake walk is just a 20 minute drive east of the city and for this you can take the bus from the central bus station directly there. Just visit their kiosk to book your outward and return journeys – it should cost between £5 – £10. Again, I’d recommend booking this in advance if you can, especially in peak summer season.

The route

The route to the lake is an out and back style walk (route here) so you’ll return the same way. It’s very well signposted from where the bus will drop you off on the side of the road. You’ll follow the path through a beautiful ancient woodland before it opens out across the plains and you cross boardwalks over marshland. With great open views of the surrounding mountains, you’ll trek the final section up towards the lake and be rewarded with gorgeous views. This will take you 3 – 4 hours there and back depending on how quickly you walk and how long you stop at the lake for.

Just note – if you’re doing this walk in winter as we did in August, the lake is likely to be frozen over so you won’t be able to see the emerald colour. For us this wasn’t a problem as the walk is still stunning and the snow adds a different dimension – plus you can walk on the lake which is quite cool. So don’t let it put you off if you’re considering this in winter, it’s still well worth it!

What to bring

I sound like a broken record but you really do need to come prepared with layers here. There are no facilities on this walk and it can get pretty chilly throughout the year so have base layers, a fleece and warm and waterproof jackets as well as a hat, gloves and buff.

Also, as there’s no restaurants or cafés here, I’d recommend packing your own lunch or buying something in the city you can eat on the way as you will get hungry. Plus, lunch and a hot flask of coffee by the lake as your reward for getting there has never tasted so good!

Day 4: Explore Ushuaia’s local history & culture

Ushuaia city centre, Argentina

On your fourth day and after three days of back to back exploring, like us you’ll probably be ready for a more relaxed day. Treat this as your mid-week rest! Today is all about exploring the heart of Ushuaia town centre and seeing some of the key sights within walking distance.

It’s also a great day to stock up on groceries if there’s anything you need from the supermarket, do any souvenir shopping and maybe enjoy a leisurely (and well deserved) afternoon cake and coffee. Here’s what I’d recommend…

Pose with the famous Ushuaia sign

Ushuaia city sign, Argentina

Now it’s most definitely cliché but you can’t leave without at least seeing the huge Ushuaia sign and ideally posing with it for a photo. Perched on the edge of the waterfront, it’s a pretty spot to explore, especially at sunrise and sunset. Take a minute to enjoy the candy skies on clear mornings and afternoons.

Circular walk through Reserva Natural Urbana Bahía Encerrada

Circular Ushuaia walk views, Argentina

Right behind the Ushuaia sign you’ll find the start of a nice short circular walk you can do around Bahia Encerrada (the lake to the right of the sign). The walk will take you up onto some higher ground from which you can get a really nice view of the city. There’s also some ponies and very cute dogs wandering around up here which is quite sweet – don’t worry they were in no way aggressive and mostly penned in.

As above, this is prettiest at sunset and sunrise as you look out across the bay. The walk will take you around 30 minutes.

Explore Ushuaia Prison Museum (& the Maritime Museum)

Ushuaia prison museum, Argentina

A really interesting site in Ushuaia is the former prison which actually houses four different museums: the prison museum, the maritime museum, the antarctic museum and the marine art museum. But the prison is the most interesting by far!

Some of the first Argentine settlers to Ushuaia were actually some of the country’s most dangerous criminals, sent to the penal colony created in 1896 as the ‘Siberia of Argentina’. Most of the original buildings and the railway that runs 12km to Tierra del Fuego National Park was built by the prisoners do make the most of their labour and develop the town.

As you can imagine in the late 1800s and early 1900s the conditions were pretty brutal and today you can tour one of the wings that was left exactly as it was upon closing in 1947. Each cell had one tiny window, a wooden platform for a bed, rudimentary chair and narrow counter. The only heat in the building came from two small heaters so in the depths of winter it would almost certainly be frozen. Needless to say it inspired a few notorious criminals to escape!

It’s an eerie spot that’s definitely worth a visit to appreciate the more complex history of the city. The museum is open every day from 10am to 8pm and tickets cost £18. Tickets are valid for two days, so you can explore each museum at your own pace.

Experience Museo del Fin del Mundo

Another good museum is housed across two buildings – the old bank and the old Government House. Since 1979 the museum has helped share the natural and cultural heritage of the area with special exhibits on the wildlife in the oceans around Tierra del Fugeo. It also highlights the important relationship with the indigenous Yámanas people and their role in protecting and conserving the landscape.

The museum is open every day apart from Sunday and tickets cost £4 ($4500 ARS). Just note – they only take cash so make sure you have enough with you.

Admire Monumento Antiguos Pobladores

Lastly, stroll towards the waterfront to see the beautiful albatross sculpture by Antonino Pilello that carries an important message. It shares the stories of the first European settlers to the province and their relationship with the native people which is a key part of the culture of Ushuaia. Take your time to read the plaques and absorb the stories.

Day 5: Hike in Tierra del Fuego National Park

Tierra del Fuego National Park, Ushuaia, Argentina

On day five, it’s time to head out into nature again. This time, westward into the official Tierra del Fuego National Park which was given its name ‘The Land of Fire’ after European settlers saw the bonfires lit by the original inhabitants of the island, the Yámanas.

The park has over 40km of beautiful trails suited to different abilities – you can find an overview of the key routes and maps here as well as which are open throughout the year. From stunning lakeside paths like you can see above to ancient forest tracks and panoramic boardwalks – expect to spend a few hours here exploring this incredible landscape.

As all the trails are so well signposted and maintained you can easily explore here by yourself but if you’d prefer to walk with a local guide, this is a great tour that includes lunch and transport to and from the park.

How to get there

To get to the national park on your own from Ushuaia like we did, simply book a seat on the bus at the bus station I mentioned earlier. The journey takes about 30 minutes and leaves four times in the morning and returns from the park three times in the afternoon so you can choose the options that work best for you. Tickets generally cost between £5 – £10, just be sure to book them in advance to save your seat!

The bus will take you via the entrance office where you’ll need to pay an entrance fee of around £15. It’s much easier to pay this in cash as the bus driver will collect it all up so make sure you have enough with you.

What to bring

Because you’ll be out exploring all day, for complete flexibility I’d recommend taking a packed lunch and then stopping at beautiful Alakush Visitor Centre for a coffee and cake in the afternoon. They do have a full restaurant here too if you’d prefer a hot lunch but we wanted to maximise our time on the trails.

Canoeing in Tierra del Fuego

If you’d love to explore some of the park from the water, there are also some brilliant canoe tour options. This is a really well-reviewed canoe and hiking day tour that includes a tasty lunch and transport to and from the park.

A note on the ‘End of the World Train’

Riding the prisoner-built train from Ushuaia to the national park is also a very popular choice. Personally, we chose not to do it because from what we’d read and seen it was incredibly touristy and also pretty expensive for a 7km journey – tickets start at $45 each. If you do choose to take the train, try to book one earlier in the day so you can explore the park at the end before returning. You can book your tickets here.

Day 6: Explore Glacier Vinciguerra’s ice caverns

Glaciar Vinciguerra, Ushuaia, Tierra del Fuego Province, Argentina

On day six, it’s time for your second glacier that in some cases you can venture inside. This hiking trail is open year-round and offers incredible up close views of Glacier Vinciguerra as well as beautiful Laguna de los Témpanos that’s fed by the glacier. This spot really is a must-see for its striking position and as it is sadly shrinking each year due to climate change, now is the time to see it!

How to get there

The start of the trail is just a 20 minute drive from the centre of Ushuaia. To get there I’d recommend taking a taxi and it might be worth arranging your return journey in advance too as the mobile signal can be patchy up there.

The route

This is also an out and back trail that’s 11.6km long (route here) and generally takes 4 to 5 hours so it is one of the longest hikes in this itinerary. It’s also probably the most challenging but as long as you set off early enough (i.e. before 10am) you’ll have plenty of time to take the hike at your own pace.

The route itself is really well marked starting at the bottom of Andorra Valley and crossing peat bogs, forrest and high moorland before a steeper rocky section leads you to Laguna de los Témpanos in front of Glacier Vinciguerra. From here you’ll get able to get closer to the glacier and see inside some of the ice caverns. Of course just always exercise precaution as the glacier can move at any time to sections can give way so keep a safe distance – particularly in the warmer months!

As this is a well-marked route you don’t really need a guide but if you want to explore more of the glacier itself you may want to book a guide who has the necessary safety equipment and ropes to take you further. You can find a very well-reviewed tour with TripAdvisor here.

What to bring

Again, don’t underestimate the weather – especially as this is a longer hike with no facilities along the way. Make sure you have enough food, water and warm layers for the whole trek. If you’re doing this trip in late autumn, winter or early spring, you’ll probably also want to wear crampons or ice grips over your shoes. You can rent these from shops in town if you don’t have your own like we did.

In the warmer months, it can get very muddy and wet so make sure you have waterproof hiking boots or shoes and enough wet weather gear.

Day 7: Off-road 4×4 lake trip or Cerro Castor skiing

Cerro Castor ski resort, Ushuaia, Argentina
Image: snowbrains.com

Last but by no means least, on your final day in Ushuaia you still have time to do something epic. I’ve included two options here to suit whichever time of year you visit and whether you’re itching to ski or want to head off-road. Let’s look at the options…

A day skiing at Cerro Castor

If you’re visiting Ushuaia in winter (June – September) and want to enjoy the snow in a faster paced environment then ski resort Cerro Castor is for you. Sat just 30 minutes drive outside town, the resort has plenty of runs to entertain you for an entire day, if not multiple days. You can find the piste map here and details on ski rentals here. The resort is fully equipped with everything you’ll need for a great day on the slopes from the right gear to bars and restaurants.

Ski passes start at around £50 per day and it’s a good idea to reserve your spot and rentals in advance during peak season (July and August) as it does get busy. To get to the resort, take the bus from the main bus station again as mentioned earlier.

A day of lake 4×4 off-roading

If you’re visiting outside of the ski season or fancy a different type of adrenaline rush then taking an off-road adventure to cross the Andes mountain range and discover Lakes Escondido and Fagnano is a great choice. Not only will you see sights that not many visitors get out to but you’ll stop for a delicious Argentinian BBQ lunch in a Fuegian forest complete with glasses of Malbec wine. Does it get any better?

This is a great way to see more of the landscapes off the beaten track that are almost impossible to get to on your own. Discover the top-rated 4×4 tour through GetMyGuide here. Plus, the guides will pick you up and drop you off at your accommodation so it’s the perfect easy way to end your week of adventure!

There we have it – that’s my ultimate one week itinerary for an unforgettable trip to Ushuaia – read on to discover my top recommendations for places to eat, drink and stay during your time here. As well as some key packing and travel tips from my experience!

Best places to eat & drink

One of the best things about Ushuaia is there are lots of brilliant places to enjoy everything from breakfast and brunch to afternoon tea, coffee and dinner. Here I’ve split out my recommendations into the best coffee spots and best restaurants as a daily coffee is essential!

It’s also worth noting there’s a large and well-stocked Carrefour supermarket just five minutes walk from the centre of town (exact location) where you can buy cooking supplies if you do want to cook any of your own meals at your accommodation. We grabbed some pasta and sauce to cook our own dinner for a couple of nights to save some money.

Best coffee shops

Ana & Juana $

Now if you only go to one coffee shop in Ushuaia, make it Ana & Juana. They have two locations along the main Av. San Martín and both serve equally delicious coffee, cake and brunch dishes in cosy and welcoming spaces. Head over earlier in the morning or after the lunchtime rush for the best chance of getting a table!

Tante Sara $

For sweet treats like cakes, pastries and chocolates with your coffee, choose Tante Sara. You can also get a ‘submarino’ here which is essentially a mini chocolate submarine that you submerge in a cup of hot milk. I honestly don’t think there’s anything better after a trek through the snow.

Dulces Pau $

If you’re looking for fantastic coffee and tasty breakfast or brunch options then Dulces Pau is the one for you. They have everything from ham and cheese croissants to avocado toast and granola alongside their extensive coffee menu. Plus, if you haven’t tried the Argentine staple drink, maté yet, you can try a cup here.

El Recreo $

For great quality coffee in a cute little coffee house, head to El Recreo. Their lovely space is perfect for an afternoon caffeine stop to relax and watch the world go by.

Laguna Café de Barrio $

For the best barista quality coffee, Laguna should be your first choice. Their stylish space is super welcoming and you can be sure to get a brilliant coffee.

Alakush Visitor Centre $

As I mentioned earlier, within Tierra del Fuego National Park you’ll find the beautiful newish visitor centre café. They do serve main meals here but I’d recommend packing your own lunch and enjoying a coffee and cake here with the star of the show – the view. Sit back in their comfy lounge chairs in front of their panoramic window and beside the roaring fire. It was so comfortable, my boyfriend actually fell asleep! That’s when you know it’s a good one 😂

La Cabaña Tea House $

Sat up on Glacier Martial, you’ll find the ‘end of the world tea shop’. A super cute little tea room serving coffee, lunch and afternoon teas alongside their home mixed tea blends and gifts that you can buy. This is the perfect stop after hiking up the glacier – we stopped by for lunch and coffee and everything was perfect.

Chloe’s Tea House $

From Thursday to Sunday each week, you can also stop by this very special tea house. It’s set within an incredible building that looks like the bud of a flower and is perched on the mountainside just above the city giving you incredible views. They serve a seasonal afternoon tea menu with sweet and savoury treats – just be sure to book in advance as there are only a handful of tables and it’s a popular spot!

Best restaurants

Bodegón Fueguino $$

This unassuming spot quickly became our favourite for hearty warming lunches. After being blown about in the Beagle Channel or hiking up a glacier, all you want is a tasty lamb or veggie stew. That’s exactly what Bodegón Fueguino does so well – their cosy little restaurant serves delicious and reasonably priced dishes with brilliant glasses of wine and desserts.

Step off the mountain and head straight here to warm up and refuel!

Ramos Generales El Almacén $$

For more authentic local dishes and a little more variety, this is a great choice. Also in the centre of town and serving meat, fish, seafood and veggie dishes, there’s something for everyone!

El Viejo Marino $$$

Another star of Southern Patagonia is the king crab. If you’re keen to try it for yourself, El Viejo Marino is the place to go. This super popular and well-reviewed spot serves the star of the show in many different styles from chowders and broths to whole crab and crab infused dishes.

Plus, if you’re on a budget, they do have some cheaper options you can enjoy for the crab experience without the price tag.

La Casa de Los Mariscos $$

Another seafood haven is La Casa de Los Mariscos. Also on the high street this restaurant serves king crab dishes alongside other seafood specials, empanadas and sandwiches so even if crab isn’t your thing, there will be the perfect dish for you.

Isla Vegana $

Vegan or just craving some veggies after a few weeks in meat-heavy Argentina? Isla Vegana is the one for you. This vegan restaurant serves fresh dishes packed with flavour.

Salitre Restaurante $$

Lastly, if you’re looking for a taste sensation that’s a little more refined, modern Saltire is the place. The reviews speak for themselves – the owners pride themselves on serving only the finest dishes created with quality local produce that’s in season.

Plus, for the quality of the food and wine the prices are pretty reasonable, even for those on a tighter budget!

Best places to stay

When it comes to where to stay, there’s plenty of choice to suit all budgets. Here are my top picks…

Budget: El Refugio Lodge Hostel (£23 per dorm bed with breakfast)

El Refugio Lodge Hostel, Ushuaia, Argentina

For the best quality dorm beds at really reasonable prices, El Refugio is the one. Their super clean and fresh dorms are really comfortable and they have plenty of shared space including a fully equipped kitchen and outside patio and garden area.

Sat pretty much in the centre of town, you can get to all the major sights in under 5 minutes walk. Plus, breakfast is included in the price – what more could you want!?

Mid-range: Departamentos ‘Al Sur’ (£48 per night + AirBnB fees)

Departamentos Al Sur, Ushuaia, Argentina

If having your own apartment is more your style then this AirBnB is a great affordable choice. This is actually where we stayed and it was perfect. Just 10 minutes walk to the centre of town, spacious, super clean and fitted with everything you could need including pots, pans and crockery to cook your own meals.

Especially handy is that it’s closer to the big Carrefour supermarket I mentioned earlier so stocking up on groceries for breakfast and dinner was really easy. The hosts were also incredibly helpful and booked taxis for us back to the airport and around town when we needed them.

Affordable luxury: Mágica Cabaña en el Bosque con Cine privado (£106 per night)

Cabaña en el Bosque Patagónico con cine in/out, Ushuaia, Argentina

If you’re looking for something a bit more special, this cosy cabin is quite literally magical. Nestled in the woods up on the hillside you’ll really feel like you’re in your own wonderland but still just a 20 minute walk from the city centre.

The cabin has all the essentials for a memorable stay plus some little luxuries like an outdoor projector screen to watch films under the stars (and fairy lights), a warm wood-fired stove and views of the mountains.

Ultimate luxury: Arakur Ushuaia Resort & Spa (£550 per night with breakfast)

Arakur Ushuaia Resort & Spa, Argentina

But if it’s pure luxury you’re after, it doesn’t get better than Arakur Resort. This stunning spot just outside the city centre has sweeping views of the bay and surrounding mountains as well an infinity pool and hot tubs to sit in to kick back and take it all in.

Plus, there’s also an indoor pool, gym and health suite as well as full restaurant serving delicious breakfast, lunch and dinner.

What to pack & key things to know

Ushuaia at dusk, Argentina

As Ushuaia is such a remote and unique destination, here are a few things to consider and pack to have the best time. These are all lessons from my personal experience travelling in this region…

Waterproof walking boots: Whether it’s snowing or raining, Ushuaia’s position on the coast means weather systems can roll in quickly and make paths, trails and even the gravel roads through town pretty tricky terrain. And if you’re out in Tierra del Fuego National Park or heading up Glacier Martial it will only be more extreme so come prepared with the right footwear. During my trip I wore my waterproof walking boots basically every day as they’re so comfortable and you stay protected against the elements and wet feet, which is the worst!

Layer up: Again, even in summer the cold wind can whip across Ushuaia so come prepared with layers. This is especially important on the glaciers and remote parts of the National Park. It’s better to over than under pack here so have a fleece, windproof layer, warm hat and gloves at hand. A buff will also be your best friend on the boat tour to protect your face from the wind and sea spray!

Expect full snowstorms in winter: As I’ve mentioned above, the weather really can change quickly and it snows a lot in winter but it’s not anything to panic about. The airport is fully equipped to tackle taking off and landing in the snow – they have snow ploughs and deicer to keep things running and on track. Walking in the snow can make it trickier and losing visibility can be a bit unnerving but as long as you follow the signs and use your common sense, don’t let it put you off exploring! One of the best walks we did was to Laguna Esmeralda in the snow, it made for one of the prettiest woodland walks I’ve ever experienced.

Book activities & experiences in advance: Don’t miss out on the best activities because they get booked up. As soon as you know your travel dates, I’d recommend booking your must-do activities as tours like the Beagle Channel cruise do fill up quickly – particularly in the peak summer season.

If you’re travelling in winter, this is less of an issue but it’s still worth booking in advance. As I mentioned earlier, it’s also helpful to head to the bus station and book your buses to Tierra del Fuego, the Martial Glacier and Laguna Esmeralda trail head so you get the best timed departures for your schedule.

Money & the ‘blue dollar’: Lastly, it’s key to consider money in Argentina as high inflation means the Argentine Peso is continually being devalued and locals prefer to hold onto US Dollars as it’s more stable. This has lead to multiple exchange rates being created – the one the government sets and then the ‘blue market’ which is usually significantly higher than the government rate. What that means for you is it’s better to bring US dollars to Argentina and change them into Argentine Pesos at local currency exchanges than through the bank or taking cash out there.

To do this, the best and safest options are sending money from your own bank account to a Western Union branch in Argentina that you can pick up the cash from, or by using your credit card as since 2022 many credit card providers have changed their exchange rates to be more in-line with the ‘blue rate’. But it’s always good to check before you travel – this could save you a chunk of money. To learn more about this – I’d recommend reading this more in-depth blog on money in Argentina here.

How much one week in Ushuaia costs

Now you’re hopefully ready to book your once in a lifetime trip to Ushuaia, it’s key to think about your budget. You’re probably wondering how much you can expect to spend in your week here. While food and accommodation costs are generally on the lower side, as I mentioned above, some of the activities and experiences that I think are must-dos are a bit more expensive.

With that in mind, if you are on a tighter budget like we were, look to cook more of your own meals in your hostel or apartment and walk as much as you can instead of taking taxis to bring the cost down. By doing that and staying in a hostel or more affordable apartment you can expect to spend as little as £350 during your one-week trip to Ushuaia.

If you’d like to eat out more, enjoy additional tours and experiences or stay in more luxurious accommodation, expect to spend over £500 in one week in Ushuaia. But I promise it’s all worth it!

That completes my ultimate itinerary for the best week in the southern tip of Argentina. This is such a special place, I hope you love it as much as I did. Please comment and let me know if you visit any of these spots or if you have any questions. Happy travelling!

More Argentina guides + tips

Find the best accommodation in Ushuaia and beyond with Booking.com. Plus, the more you use the platform, the more they reward you with discounts and free breakfasts – a great way to save!

For the best guided experiences in Ushuaia, I’d really recommend GetYourGuide. You can find their full range of Ushuaia + Argentina tours here.

Discover Hostelworld for the best reviewed spots in Ushuaia and across Argentina.

To make sure you still have mobile data for maps and other travel essentials, discover the easiest eSIMs from Airalo. I’ve used them all over the world for easy connection. Discover their affordable Argentina plans here.

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